Saturday, August 05, 2006

Haridwar, India



This picture was taken outside a gas station near Meerut on the drive from Haridwar back to Delhi with my mother and sister a few months ago. My dad's death anniversary. Haridwar was very disappointing, considering that the last time I was there in 1989. We stopped the car so the qualis could get some gas ("petrol") and so my sister could feed my nephew. I wandered away from the car and stopped at this field with trees. There was nothing particularly fascinating about the field or the trees. But it was nice and like how Indian small towns often feel, quite familiar. I always get lost in these places.

Two nights ago, I flew in from the US to Delhi and met up with my sister at the airport. She flew in from San Frasisco via Bombay. So she brought mom along with her. We had an interesting but tense dinner at this Indian restaurant at Le meridien after the hotel sent a baby sitter to watch my nephew. I can't remember the last time the three of us were together like this for a meal. The hotel had a weird vibe. The last time I was there was two years prior to that and some politico's daughter was getting married. All I remember is a sea of safari suits and white kurtas.

Dad's absense was weighing heavily on everyone's minds.

The driver of our SUV was a young man that never took a shower or changed his clothes the entire time he was with us. His teeth were yellow and he spoke very seldom. He was barely twenty four. I wondered what it was that kept him going. I never saw him eat or sleep in spite of us giving him plenty of breaks to do both. I tried often to strike up a conversation with him, but I couldn't get much out of him except smiles.

He must have been amused by us and the way we were, excited about the drive. And for my nephew, this was heaven, this was the first time he ever travelled in a vehicle without being restrained. Dangerous, but also freeing.

Last time I went this way, back in 1989, I was in one of those prvate buses. Roads look different and things look prosperous.

Life changes so much around you.